Travelling east from Naples, past Vesuvius and further inland, the roads begin to climb and twist sharply and the air becomes noticeably cooler. This green, mountainous area is known as Irpinia. Small farms are dotted around the hills, many growing olives or grapes or both. In the past, most of the produce was sold to local cooperatives, but more and more are establishing their own wineries. Cantina Bambinuto was founded by Marilena Aufiero in 2004, though her family have owned vines since 1990. There can be no doubt that Bambinuto is the star of Irpinia: Marilena’s wines shine with purity and are undercut by distinct minerality. Her top wine is from the crù Picoli, a greco di tufo vineyard that produces a wine reminiscent of riesling but with a clear Italian edge.