France remains the deepest cheese country in the world, and this is the largest part of our continental counter.

Brie de Meaux and Delice de Bourgogne from the north, Comté and Alpine wheels from Savoie, ash-coated goat's cheeses from the Loire, Roquefort from the south, and washed rinds with the kind of pungency that makes people nervous and then converts them.

Much of this comes through affineurs we have bought from for decades, which matters — ageing is where a good cheese becomes a great one.

See also soft cheese, hard cheese and French wine.